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I wouldn’t recommend it. Depending on resin you could experience; Weeping, where the photo-initiator leaches out of the print over time. Over curing due to exposure to sunlight. Leading to deformation. Castables due to their function don’t do well when left for prolonged periods of time. A month is not bad, a year I wouldn’t recommend.

Although prolonged exposure can cause serious ailments, less serious issues such as contact dermatitis (irritation and allergic reaction) can cause the end of your resin printing career and are more likely to occur over a shorter period. Basically your body eventually can't stand to touch the stuff after dealing with so many prolonged exposures. PPE is definitely a good idea

I think we mentioned this in our Senertek review and in a few others. Boric Acid is an additive that can be used to harden the investment. This is useful for resins that are known to expand before burning. The issue is that you then have to use a power washer to be able to get into your investment as quenching the flask doesn't even move the investment that much. For most people it's easier to just buy a resin that doesn't need it. You add in about 1% by weight

phrozen3d.com/pages/resin-profile We use a lot of the same printing profiles as recommended by Phrozen. Their resins are really soft and need ample supports, almost to the point of over supporting. Due to this softness there W40 and W20 should not be used for delicate models.

They’re actually the same price I think the drop-down size option menu is just in a different order so one’s listed at 1 kg as the automatic option and the other is listed at 500 grams. But price per gram is the same.

These are cast in resin. It’s not wax. Siraya tech purple is not meant for large items. I think we may have mentioned that in the review that’s why Siraya made true blue. Although true blue is more difficult to print. The one we’re using in this video is apply lab work cyan. Power resins vintage and blue cast X one also print and cast large relatively well depending on design.

@@ClearMindJewellery thanks for the reply and great videos. I have some X-one on order, looking forward to trying that. My parts are ~3"x3" square, but only ~2mm wall thickness so I thought I could get away with the purple. Are those solid resin or did you print them hollow and then drain and patch? thanks again!

@@newretrorockets we did a pair solid and a pair hollow. We have a small bust sculpture video where we used the method you are describing.

support.powerresins.com/en_US/phrozen-3d-printers-settings/phrozen-sonic-mini-8ks

What is your initial layer exposure and have you tried sanding the build plate if it is not already laser engraved?

@@ClearMindJewellery Hey, the plate is laser engraved. I was running the recommended 48Second initial layer exposure time. I did trial up to 60seconds. The main fix was using the Vogman's resin printed priming plate. This allows for consistent prints now. I do intend to trial/use Monocure3D's Burnout resin which will hopefully have better adhesion. Thanks for all the top tier content, it is greatly helpful and appreciated.

Depends on your skill level, what you make, and whom you make it for. Any business in the jewelry industry can go bankrupt or see several millions in revenue. It depends on if you have the skills to make it happen. Working in gold each project can easily be $5,000-10,000. If you get into bulk silver casting a small order could be $1,000-2,000, a large order well… If you decide to go the foundry direction some shops are doing $60/lb in bronze meaning thousands or hundreds of thousands per project. But again you need to know how to make it happen. You could just as easily buy several thousands of dollars worth of equipment that you then don’t know how to set up and make no profit your first year because you don’t know how to do the workflow. And then then spend the next four years trying to climb out of that debt while building your client list.

Our rapid burnout is all the same no matter the resin. We will be doing a video on it in the future weyjust heading into conference season so time is limited. Basically ramp gradually, but swiftly to 1350 Fahrenheit allow the items to sit for between 4 to 5 hours and then ramp down to casting temperature. Nothing fancy. We have talked about this in the monicure3d video and a separate burnout vlog.

@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks mate really appreciate it.

@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks for that, appreciate the info.

We were using closer to what you have for your settings when we had the regular Prusia SL1 however when we upgraded to the SL1S and did the latest re-review we were able to decrease to what we stated in the review. If you are using slow tilt, having good bed adhesion, and no FEP adhesion the faster settings will be enough.

@@ClearMindJewellery So, I was a little impatient and went ahead to do a print similar to your settings last night. 40 Seconds initial 7 Seconds per layer The results... I was able to reduce a typically 7 hour job down to just under 3 hours with my SL1S using Power Resins Dark. The quality is still exceptionally high as usual. No visible defects at all.

What matters more in my opinion is thickness. A 0.127 will release better then a 0.15 for example. We have tried the elegoo nFEP, but are running with generic at the moment. It’s cheaper, easier to get, and the “fancy stuff” doesn’t make a large enough difference imo to change over all our printers. If you can get 1.27 nFEP at a decent price and only have the one machine it might be worth experiencing.

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Cracking could be a number of factors from inappropriate mixing, inappropriate amount of water, inappropriate burnout, or inappropriate placement of the items inside your flask. Or Improper calibration of the kiln itself if you haven’t checked it in a while and you’ve replaced any parts.

Not sure what you mean by "need to put that yellow wax that you showed din order to UV dry it". EasyCast 400 does need a 30 minute post UV cure for best results.

The adhesion has greatly improved with the new wave of engrave build plates. Last time we tried it the adhesion issues were silly.

I really hate the purple resins that are only marginally opaque or are really shiny. Makes quality control difficult without specific lighting.

id say vintage, and the casting is much better too

Depends on the details. Thin filagree and items that require structure or unique supporting, use vintage. Items that have debossed or embossed details like lettering, use Bluecast XOne.

It’s coming to a point that a lot of resins are getting focused down, as it’s becoming harder to do everything well as more techniques are becoming mainstream (example: finding one resin that can do large prints, print in place trees, and stone setting would be a tremendous undertaking.) However, some resins that cover the most of the gambit would be power resins vintage on the higher end as it can do larger objects, smaller filigree style objects and stone in-place casting, although we have yet to fully test the stone in-place casting capabilities ourselves. A good quality lower budget will be apply lab work cyan as this is an inexpensive workhorse that can do print in place trees, large objects, as well as small detailed objects. Monocure 3D burn away is not bad if you value time above doing larger objects. However, if you have a niche that you specifically work in for your business, I would recommend investigating other resins that are more suited to that niche.

As the rings are made with wax wire it’s simple to make them in multiple sizes when doing the wax work. Doing the resizing post casting would lead to breaking the illusion of the design or a lot of carving work.

Our large wheats and tunnels or cast and silicon bronze. As are the majority of our tests, as most the items get re-melted after the video has been up for a couple of weeks. The figure featured at the end of this video is cast in sterling silver.

I don’t believe Bluecast has filagree test files although they do have some others.

It’s an air powered cutter. We will be doing a full video on it soon.

😉 Try gold @ $2300 US for 31.1 gm.

cheaper than its competitors. bluecast x10 and power resins dark are $300. $300 is still too much for me but im going to try this as siraya tech isn't really cutting it for me anymore (hard to print and long post print process, it burns out well its just a pain to print).

Approximately 10-15 minutes in 60 watt.

Yes there is a PC based software however as an Apple based studio we didn't try it and it's extremely basic. You can use other slicers or use the onboard slicing software. As you mentioned the onboard slicing software can still use some updates. The $300 long life vat is with FEP and silicone but we have not tested it. The DLP unit is different. The touch screen is relatively fine although it could be better if slightly angled. Dan has really rough hands and occasionally has issues with touch screens.

Glad it was helpful. Vintage is a really interesting resin. However if you’re doing relief work with lettering as per the video Bluecast XOne would be the better option.

Burnout is set to 1400°F is that too high? Should I do 1350°?

Bubbles?

Could be from not vacuuming the investment or maybe trapped gas, have you had successful casting with different resin?

If you can clarify what you mean by bubbles that would be great as depending on the shape and texture of the issue that will mean different things; Most likely due to the location and material you mentioned its a resin/investment issue. Improper post processing of the prints leaving residue in the stone settings that interact with the investment later causing breakage. That would be my suggestion if your "bubbles" are heavily textured and a non specific shapes. However if they are soft edged roundish shaped, or indented tiny soft edge spots, that would mean something else.

Its a roundish shape, I'm getting them in my stone holes for a cuban bracelet, I haven't tried any other resin yet, first cast I ever did it came out close to flawless, I think I could be adding to much water to investment mix, there no where else but my stone holes, like something is getting trapped somehow, I clean the prints very well, my first time investment was kinda clumpy but product came out good, if it's not mixed good enough it don't get in clasp holes for opening and closing the snap clasp, then I have to try to drill out holes but haven't had much luck, drill bits snap being so small then I have to take bit out and melt it back down, just costing a lot making mistakes, one of my biggest hills other then learning rhino